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Where to Get Your Pemmican on
Mon, 09/12/2011 - 10:12
Looking for Turkish nosh in Toronto? No problem. Got a hankering for Ethiopian? You bet. How about Ukrainian, Italian, Spanish, Thai or Greek? Just a matter of being pointed in the right direction. But options have historically been sorrily scant for locals looking for a taste of their own country’s most native fare. Until recently, thanks to the launch of two initiatives dedicated to the service of Aboriginal cuisine.
First, the Keriwa Café, which opened in Parkdale (1690 Queen St. W.) in mid August. Promising a menu of fresh and authentic ingredients, this restaurant is the breathless product of the efforts of owner and chef Aaron Joseph Bear Robe, a Blackfoot with the impressive pedigree that having worked at Splendido and Michael Städtlander’s Eigensinn Farm bestows on a guy.
The menu at this eagle-feather and buckskin-adorned spot is a treat, populated with such indigenous staples as Lake Huron white fish, Saskatoon berries, and lots and lots of bison. There’s also a whack of tasty cocktails on offer here, sporting whimsical, neighbourhood-inspired handles like the Parkdale Pusher and The Streetcar.
Keriwa’s menu will change often, says Bear Robe, with its next iteration featuring the bounty of the province’s late-summer and early-fall harvests. Look for innovation around greens, cabbages, new root vegetables, stone fruit, game birds, heirloom tomatoes, winter squash, pulses and berries.
And if that ain’t native enough for ya, check out Bannock, Oliver & Bonacini Restaurant’s latest. In keeping with the O&B commitment to Canadian cuisine, the menu at this downtown joint (401 Bay St., at Queen) will feature all things bannock, including herb and garlic bannock, BLT bannock and whole-wheat bannock with potted creton spread.
You can also read a full review of Keriwa by Alan A. Vernon at Dine.TO.
Anonymous
on Tue, 10/25/2011 - 06:30
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