Canada’s Best Take Flight

enRoute, Air Canada’s high-flying in-flight magazine, has announced its annual list of the country’s best new restaurants—and two of TO’s finest have been invited to soar with the eagles.

The winning establishments had to have been opened between summer 2009 and summer 2010. Beyond that, the sky was the limit. The victorious Toronto pair is part of a convocation of top-notch eateries that includes, all told, three restaurants from BC, one from Alberta, two from Quebec and four from Ontario.

Toronto’s Local Kitchen & Wine Bar—fourth on the list—was singled out for its “earnest energy and post-pretentious attitude.” Down to the name, the judges said, this cozy Parkdale upstart where everything is homemade and nobody’s heard of a reservation, “belies the finely tuned offerings: scratch food so close to the heart, they wouldn't dream of writing ‘homemade’ on the chalkboard.”

And Buca Restaurant, a spare, sweet treasure that lurks behind an unmarked metal door on King St., scored eighth spot for its successful simplicity. “The funghi pie is superlative,” the judges enthused. “Cut the rectangular crust with scissors. Add something green—wild dandelion salad with figs—and something salty—delicate coppa or crispy-chewy fried pigs’ ears. When less is this good, who needs more?”

Presiding over the lot find chef Michael Stadtlander’s much-ballyhooed Haisai Restaurant and Bakery—an oasis of haute cuisine that springs from a farmer’s field north of the city. But a taste of these top-ranking vittles will cost you a two-hour’s drive. Better, maybe, to contain your cravings to the city limits. Or just grab a flight.