Bistro 990 411

A long view of the future of Bistro 990, the grande old dame of Toronto’s Provençal scene, may be shorter than in years past.

Widely celebrated as the culinary playground of the rich and famous, and feasted upon wildly during the charmed stretch of the film festival, the place is known for its meat-heavy bistro classics and baked-on-the-scene dessert menu. Once a thriving hotspot of all things bordelaise, Bistro 990 is said to be suffering shrinking attendance of late.

Still, the place, holding fort at the corner of Bay and Wellesley, opposite the elite Sutton Place and near most of Toronto’s other luxury hotels, has location in its favour. For now.

The Bell Lightbox, the Toronto film festival’s permanent home, broke ground in February 2007 and is slated to accommodate at least some of of this year’s TIFF functions. Organizers anticipate that the screening capacity at this King St. hub will eventually kill all programming at Yorkville-area theatres—and cast a pall over neighbouring businesses that feed on its overflow.

Opened in 1988 by chef Chris Klugman, Bistro 990, with its vaulted ceilings, corn-crusted sea bass and endless attitude is as much a museum of a time and a place as it is a restaurant.

Nearby Prego shut its doors at the end of March. Could its tony neighbour be next?

Called for comment, the folks at Bistro 990 offered none at all.